070811 High Neb

Overview - Another quick outting to introduce Dad to a wonderful bunch of UKCers. High Neb's pretty much got it all, but I'll have to start pushing the harder lines if I go back again - I think I've now done everything leftwards to Youth Buttress under E2. The afternoon started reasonably well, with a timely arrival for a quick second of Kelly's, but ended with much confusion on the very similar Silence... Apparantly there was a great game of "Mime the Climb" down the pub afterwards. Class.

Kelly's Overhang (3* HVS 5b):

Second - There had obviously been a few attempts to second Hazel up this one before I'd arrived, as the relief that was on a few faces said it all! Well, I don't think I've ever been up to High Neb without doing Kelly's, so why not? First time I think I've done the proper full rock-over rightwards from the rest, and, in finding it relatively easy, have to now question my conviction that it's definitely E1. Back to the grade drawing board...

Gunter (VS 4c):

Led - It always feels strange leading something I've previously soloed, although I can't quite figure out why. Gunter's a move or two of good balancy layback, but not much else. A good route if everything else is busy and you want to nip up something to keep warm.

Way Fruitsome Experience (HVS 5c):

Solo - The centre of the wall right of Gunter is more a boulder problem with a bad landing than a route, and was "done because it's there". I started the crux thinking I'd just have a feel, and found myself grabbing the top with haste! Warning (x2): it's not all over after the crux, and there's no gear on it - Dad couldn't balance and Hazel simply couldn't reach, so it might be sensible to really think about it first before jumping on! Not in Rockfax.

Norse Corner Climb (2* HS 4c):

Led - A tricky start (but can be done in about 4 places) leads to pleasant half-laybacking off large cracks. Simply a nice climb. Dad seconded, correctly graded and stared.

Silence (HVS 5b):

Led - The "Norse indirect" looked like fun from the ground, but quickly got me in trouble trying to traverse into the left vertical crack. Large cams and a irresponsible sense of stupidity will help, and you know there has to be a good hold somewhere... But this is where I totally give up on the grades. This vs. Kelly's vs. The Link - given HVS, HVS E1. I think not. Silence is IMHO harder than Link and only a touch easier than Kelly's, which would make them HVS (hard), E1 (easy), HVS (?). As I said, I give up!